Eze France: Medieval Splendor

“Follow me young man,
And you shall know
all of my secrets…almost”

Jean-Phillipe Richard for the statue of Margot

My extended European adventure began with a gathering of friends from my gourmet cooking club, and Eze, France, wasn’t even on my radar. I had just spent a fantastic week in the charming hilltop village of Montisi, Tuscany, Italy. Yet, as anyone who’s traveled across the globe knows, one week is never enough when you’ve come so far. So, I invited my sister-in-law, Lisa, to join me in Italy, and we planned to continue to France to visit family. During our time in Italy, Lisa suggested we stop in Monaco, where she had a friend to visit. Neither of us had ever been to Monaco, so it seemed like the perfect incentive to make the trip.

We focused our research on Monaco itself, planning to visit the Royal Palace, Monte Carlo, and the glamorous beaches of the Côte d’Azur. But upon our arrival, our gracious hosts, with their local knowledge and warm hospitality, suggested we take a detour for a day trip to the nearby village of Eze, just a short drive from Monaco. They recommended we explore the medieval town and the breathtaking botanical gardens that sit atop the hill. Intrigued by their enthusiasm, we decided to take their advice, and it turned out to be one of the highlights of our entire trip.

This experience was a perfect reminder of the value of leaving room for spontaneity in travel plans and always seeking advice from the locals. Sometimes, the best experiences come from stepping off the beaten path and following the recommendations of those who know the area best.

A Bit About Eze, France, and Where is it Located

Eze, France, dates back to the 1300s. It is between Monaco and Nice, France. If coming from Monaco, it is about a 5-mile trip. It takes about 10-15 minutes by car and is reachable by train and bus. The drive itself is quite beautiful as you climb Bastide Mountain. Parking is limited if you are driving, so arriving early is best, especially if it is hot.

The town is 1,400 feet above sea level on the stunning French Mediterranean. Because of its elevated location, it is referred to as the Eagle’s Nest. Eze France has a population of around 2,000 people.

History of Eze

The area surrounding Eze has been inhabited since as early as 2000 BC, with its hilltop location offering a strategic vantage point for various ancient civilizations. Over the centuries, Eze has been home to a diverse range of occupiers, from the Phoenicians and Romans to the Moors, Turks, Spaniards, and Italians, each leaving their mark on this beautiful village.

In 1388, Eze fell under the rule of the Savoia family, the Italian royal dynasty, but its control shifted a few years later when the French took over. The medieval period was particularly turbulent for the village; Eze was destroyed and rebuilt multiple times. The town we see today, with its narrow cobblestone streets and stunning stone buildings, was largely reconstructed during the medieval era by the French, meaning that it is not the original settlement founded in 1100.

The village’s history was marked by more upheaval, including a significant event in 1706 when King Louis XIV ordered the destruction of Eze’s fortified walls during the War of the Spanish Succession, aiming to weaken the region’s defensive capabilities. Despite this, Eze’s resilience endured. It wasn’t until 1860, however, that the people of Eze unanimously voted to become part of France, officially solidifying their place in the country’s history.

Eze’s rich, layered history is still visible today in its architecture, streets, and the very essence of the village, offering visitors a glimpse into its storied past that spans thousands of years.

Stunning Views

The medieval village and its castle are magnificent, but the view of the Mediterranean Sea has made it renowned. No matter how prepared you are for the views, they are even more breathtaking than you imagined. It is a top destination in an area already reputed for its beauty.

What made it extra special was the simplicity and genuineness of the town. Being so close to prestigious Monaco, it was lovely to see the efforts made to keep its charm, narrow streets, and buildings preserved. The village is a pedestrians-only town with no car traffic. It can make an arduous walk up challenging, but it is worth it. I was in a boot after an Achilles tear, which was not ideal.

Wandering Eze

Near the parking lot, you’ll find the Eze Tourist Office—make sure to stop by and pick up a map to help guide your journey through the town’s many landmarks. As you leave the office, begin your ascent up the hill towards the village. Ahead, you’ll spot the church perched atop the hill, a beautiful landmark that signals your entry into the historic heart of Eze through the postern, a 14th-century gate that adds to the village’s medieval charm.

Once inside, you’ll find yourself meandering through a labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets and winding alleys. The maze of paths is more intricate than you might imagine, each corner revealing something nd enchanting. One street you won’t want to miss is Rue de Barri, which leads to the stunning and exclusive Hotel La Chèvre d’Or. Don’t forget to take the time to explore the hotel’s exquisite gardens, which offer not only a peaceful retreat but also breathtaking views that make this hidden gem even more magical.

Eze’s stunning homes and buildings left us utterly spellbound, each one a testament to the village’s timeless charm. Many of these historic structures have been transformed into vibrant art galleries, unique shops, and delightful restaurants, offering a blend of culture and creativity at every turn. The village is home to a number of talented artisans, whose craftsmanship is reflected in the eclectic offerings of the local boutiques. As you wander through its narrow streets, you’ll discover inviting courtyards, each more picturesque than the last, perfect for a moment of pause.

The steep staircases winding their way up the mountainside not only assist in your climb to the top but also offer glimpses of the breathtaking views that unfold with every step. I highly recommend taking your time to explore every corner of this enchanting village; there’s a hidden beauty in every stone and a story in every pathway, making each visit an unforgettable journey through time.

Are you planning a trip to France? Our France Travel Guide can help you plan your perfect vacation.

The Must-Dos During Your Visit

When visiting Eze, there are several sites you can’t miss. One of the standout landmarks is the Chapelle de la Sainte Croix, built in the early 14th century. As the oldest building in the village, its historical significance is immense, and its interior is absolutely stunning, rich with art and an undeniable sense of tranquility.

Another fascinating feature of Eze is the Porte des Maures, a gate that opens to the other side of the village, next to the Château d’Eza. This castle, over 400 years old, now operates as a luxury hotel, offering a blend of history and modern elegance that captures the essence of Eze’s timeless beauty.

The streets surrounding Place Francis Blanche are a photographer’s dream, with vibrant plants and bougainvillea cascading over charming buildings. The narrow streets are filled with small fountains, intricate windows, and quaint doorways that exude the village’s character. I couldn’t resist taking countless pictures of these lovely features, each one capturing the essence of the village’s charm.

Another gem is the Notre Dame de L’Assumption church, located at the edge of Eze’s old village. Built in the second half of the 18th century, this neoclassical church might not impress from the outside, but once inside, visitors are treated to an exquisite collection of paintings and frescoes. The interior is a true hidden treasure, showcasing the village’s artistic heritage in all its beauty.

Jardins Exotiques de Eze

As you make your way toward the top of the village, you’ll soon spot the entrance to the Jardins Exotiques de Eze, perched atop the ruins of a medieval castle. This stunning botanical garden offers not only a remarkable collection of plants but also some of the most breathtaking panoramic views you can imagine. From this vantage point, you’ll be treated to sweeping views of the Mediterranean, the French Riviera, and even the distant Italian coast. On a clear day, Corsica is visible on the horizon, adding to the garden’s allure. The garden does have an entry fee, but the experience and the views make it more than worth the price.

Once you step inside the award-winning Jardins Exotiques de Eze, you’ll be greeted by a remarkable collection of over 400 exotic plant species from across the globe. The gardens are meticulously organized, with the south-facing side showcasing a diverse array of succulent plants and xerophytes, which thrive in arid conditions. This section offers a fascinating display of flora adapted to dry climates, from cacti to aloes. On the north-facing side, the landscape shifts dramatically, housing plants native to more humid regions, including those from the Mediterranean and other lush environments around the world. The contrast between these two distinct plant ecosystems highlights the garden’s diversity and the beauty of nature’s adaptability.

Eze, France, is right near Monaco. Check out our Monaco Travel Guide for more info.

The Sculptures of Goddesses

Interspersed throughout the gardens are 15 captivating stone statues by sculptor Jean-Philippe Richard, each representing an ‘earth goddess.’ These striking works of art are not only visually stunning but also come with a unique poetic touch. Each sculpture is accompanied by a poem written by the artist himself, adding a deeply personal and lyrical element to the experience. The statues, which draw inspiration from Classical Greek sculpture, stand as timeless representations of grace and strength, seamlessly blending with the natural beauty of the garden. This fusion of art, poetry, and nature makes the gardens even more enchanting and thought-provoking.

The poem on the sculpture of Justin or Isis, the Egyptian goddess of motherhood and fertility, reads:

“You have recognized me…
I am the same
And yet different”

Jean-Phillipe Richard

The sculptures are interspersed among the succulents and cacti, along with what remains of the castle. The goddesses seemed to take on a life of their own. The artist was able to portray their strength and gentleness simultaneously.

The idyllic gardens were unique and beyond our expectations. The sculptures had a presence that captured the imagination. They celebrate femininity and the relationship between the beauty of the physical and ephemeral worlds. 

After All, You are in France.

On the way out, we dined at one of Eze’s many restaurants and eateries. It is France, so plan for a long, leisurely, and delicious meal at lunch, even if you only hope for a quick bite.

Of course, wine must accompany that meal. You are in south Provence, after all; choose a wine from the region to complement your meal.

Walk to the Sea from Eze

If you’re looking for a bit more exercise after that tiring trek to the top, why not continue your adventure with a hike down to Eze-sur-Mer? The trail offers a scenic descent that takes you more than an hour to reach the seaside, allowing you to soak in the stunning views as you make your way down the mountain. The path winds through lush landscapes and offers a peaceful, less-traveled route back to the coast.

However, many visitors opt for a more leisurely approach: they take the public bus from Monaco to Eze and then walk downhill from the village to the bus stop at the bottom of the mountain, where they can catch the return bus. This way, they can still enjoy the stunning views without the uphill climb, making for a perfect, relaxed return to the Riviera.

Stay The Night to Capture the Magic

We only visited for a day, but spending the night and enjoying all Eze offers would be fun after the crowds leave. There are two exceptional high-end hotels: Chateau d’Eza, a 12th-century castle, and Hotel La Chèvre d’Or. Both are very expensive, out of the range for most of us! Other accommodations are less costly in and near the village.

We have not stayed at any of these, so we can’t vouch for them. Please read the reviews carefully.

It is important to price out accommodations on various sites. Expedia is a US-based company, whereas Booking.com is Europe-based. Not all properties appear on both, so it is ideal to check both out. Our personal first choice is Booking.com. If the establishment has a website, check the price there as well. Click the link below to check out hotels and vacation homes in the area. It may be just the motivation you need to start planning that next grand adventure.

Final Thoughts

Eze is a place that deserves more than just a quick visit. While you could technically see it in two hours without taking a break or grabbing a bite to eat, that wouldn’t do the village justice. The Jardins Exotiques alone will easily take about an hour to explore, especially if you take the time to savor the breathtaking panoramic views. I highly recommend starting your day early, particularly in the summer, as the heat can become intense later on. And don’t forget to bring water with you—even if it’s not too hot, staying hydrated is key.

Eze wasn’t originally on our agenda, but what an unexpected gem it turned out to be! If you find yourself in the region, make sure to carve out time to visit the Jardins Exotiques and wander through the enchanting medieval streets of Eze. It’s easily one of my favorite hilltop towns in France, and as someone who has traveled extensively, that’s saying something!

It’s a place that will likely steal your heart, just as it did mine.

© 2025 Wanderers Compass All Rights Reserved

Check out Eze, France’s Official Tourism Site, for even more details

Photo Gallery of Eze, France

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