France Travel Guide

“Every man has two countries; his own and France.”

John F. Kennedy

France Map

Good to know before you go

• Tipping is not required in France, as it is included in the bill. However, though not customary or expected, rounding up or offering a few extra euros for excellent service will be appreciated. This applies to restaurants, cab drivers, porters, bartenders, and other service workers.
• Credit cards are readily accepted everywhere except for small vendors or in some markets. Cash is ideal for small items like coffee or a pastry.
• Overall, the clothing is stylish, sleek, and well-kept. The French tend to be fashion-savvy. If you plan to visit higher-end restaurants or the theater, there is a dress code, so dress appropriately. While wandering Paris, you will see both casual and haute couture on the same street. Although jeans have become more popular, they are still not as common as in other European nations. Sneakers are the norm now but tend to be more stylish and come in darker colors. In contrast, in the smaller villages in France, the dress code is often more casual, except among the older locals.
• France’s roadways are diverse, ranging from modern high-speed motorways to rural one-way dirt roads. There are three kinds of routes, and you should familiarize yourself with them: 1) Autoroutes, 2) National Roads, and 3) Department Roads. Most of the routes are marked with an ‘A’ for autoroute, and these are toll roads. Tolls (péage) can get quite expensive in France, so be mindful if you are on a budget. Toll roads accept credit cards, and there are many large service areas (every 9 miles) along the autoroute.
• If you want to take a more scenic route and are not rushing, then D for department roads is the way to go. You will discover new towns and have a much better view of France’s landscape. N for National routes is the shortest distance between two major centers and the preferred method for freight traffic, which is huge in France. Keep in mind that in small villages, streets are very narrow and, at times, challenging to negotiate.
• In France, there is a low tolerance for driving under the influence. In fact, since July 2012, all drivers must have a breathalyzer (L’éthylotest) on hand. You can buy a single-use breathalyzer in a pharmacy, Tabac shop, or some supermarkets. The tolerated blood alcohol level in France is very low, 0.5 mg per ml, which means one drink can put you over the alcohol limit.
• France requires your vehicle to have three items: 1. A warning triangle 2. A yellow reflective security vest 3. French Breathalyzer
• This is the home of roundabouts. They are magnificent once you learn to navigate them. Take time to learn roundabout etiquette, and you will fall in love with them too!
• Speed cameras are standard in France, so it is best to watch your speed closely.
• The French public transportation system is exceptional. The metro in Paris is simple to navigate, and no place in Paris is more than 1/3 mile from a metro station. Trains within Paris and all over France are incredible and very timely. The train stations are enormous! The TGV, high-speed trains, are always worth it. If you purchase tickets months in advance, you will find the train much less expensive, and first-class tickets are only a few euros more. First class is excellent and much more enjoyable if you can catch it when prices are low. However, don’t miss your train; Joelle did that once from Lyon to Paris, and she paid an exorbitant price for a coach seat on the next train.
• The French love American music, and you will hear it everywhere, but by law, at least 35% of all music played on private radio stations must be French.
• The French love almost everything American, especially the people. They still appreciate the U.S.’s role in liberating France from Hitler. Joelle observed this when her American family and friends were directly thanked while visiting Normandy for their role in rescuing France; they hadn’t even been born yet.
• The French don’t appreciate rude Americans, but we can guarantee they despise rude fellow Frenchpeople even more. They take good etiquette, manners, and politeness seriously in France.
• France is not a place for impatient people. Speedy service is not their thing. Anything worth doing is done thoughtfully and well.
• The only beverage you should have during a meal is wine or water: no coffee, soft drink, tea, or beer. Oh, and coffee to go is still not the norm in France.
• When speaking English, speak slower. Although they understand English, they tend to talk fast and use slang they did not learn in school.
• The French do have their superstitions! According to folklore, placing a baguette or a loaf of bread on the table upside down puts the people around you at risk of misfortune or death. As a guest in someone’s home, take care of your baguette placement.
• The French have a great fear of drafts. “Le Courant d’air” is no laughing matter to the French. Midsummer in stifling heat in a crowded dining room, Joelle and her family were enjoying a meal with her lovely French family; she went to open just one of many closed windows. The reaction was swift and firm. Close that window, or you will get sick from the Courant d’air.
• The French eat late. The finer restaurants or non-touristy ones have opening hours between 7 and 8 p.m. With many more exceptional places or tiny establishments, there are two seatings: 8:00 and 10:30. You will be there the whole time, and yes, the 10:30 finishes around 1:00 a.m.
• In most of Europe, especially France, most restaurants won’t clear your plate until everyone at the table is done. This is good etiquette, and we wish it were practiced everywhere. If one plate is removed while the other customers are still eating, it sends the message that they are being rushed to leave or that the others are taking too long to eat. No plates should be cleared until all the customers are finished eating. Finer dining establishments call this the book rule.
• The French greet predominantly with kissing on the cheeks, even in business. This is usually a light kiss cheek to cheek, mainly in the air. Usually two, but in some regions, it can be four. Suppose you are unsure what to do; just let them lead. If they reach out their hand, then shake it. The French are not huggers; even with close family, this is a romantic gesture between couples. It may even be offensive to some French people.
• Most French metro shuts down at 2:00; remember when you are out and about. Taxis and rideshare services can be called during later hours.
• The French are proud people; they will self-criticize their own country and politics but don’t like it much when you do. Keep your opinions to yourself. If you need to critique, speak about your views on U.S. politics. They watch us closely.
• Never leave a bathroom door open. Always fully close the door.
• The French have a particular sense of humor, often dry and sometimes offensive. It is not meant to offend; they try not to take themselves too seriously!
• Raucous dinner debates and arguing are common in French culture. This will include dramatic gestures and raised voices. It is ingrained in the French, so don’t take it personally if it is directed at you.
• As Joelle is French and has all her extended family in France, she will address some cultural tips in the next section to enhance your French experience.

Joelle’s Do’s and Don’ts when visiting France

The French have a reputation for being rude, intolerant, and hating Americans. However, this reputation is far from the truth. In fact, I have found the French to be some of the kindest and most gracious people in my travels. This observation comes not from my native bias but from careful observation beyond my personal interactions. I have taken many American friends of all ages to France and watched closely (it’s the behavioral scientist in me). Additionally, I often watch tourists interact with the locals.

When I travel to accompany friends and family for the first time, I always share a basic set of rules (#1 below), and, as a result, they rarely have negative experiences anywhere in France.

The French follow established manners, rules, and cultural customs—or, more accurately, etiquette. These customs are very important to the French. By following them, you will receive a much warmer and kinder welcome. The French are proud people; therefore, showing respect and awareness goes a long way. After all, you are a guest in their country, so be a good one.

France Do’s and Don’ts

1. Imagine someone walking into your home, walking right by you without a word or greeting, and starting to wander around. Would you be irritated? This scenario is at the heart of why many people complain that they are treated rudely in shops and markets.

The French, however, are more formal and polite. Therefore, as you walk in and out of a boulangerie, patisserie, small boutique, pharmacy, or shop, you should always acknowledge the salespeople with eye contact and a clearly spoken “Bonjour Madame” (for women) or “Bonjour Monsieur” (for men). Additionally, you could follow up with “Comment allez-vous?” (How are you?). This is how French people do it. In fact, if you watch, you will notice that this is the case. Just a simple effort on your part can lead to a much more helpful and gracious salesperson. Over the years, observing many interactions has revealed how much better a person’s English becomes when treated politely.

Finally, as you depart, you can also say one or all of the following: “Aurevoir,” “Merci Beaucoup,” or “Bonne Journée” (Goodbye, Thank you, and Have a good day).

2. The above rule works well in restaurants too. In fact, always greet the Host/Hostess upon entering. Once seated, it’s important to greet your server and anyone else who comes to your table. Additionally, speak softly and slowly, as many Americans tend to speak very loudly, assuming it somehow helps others understand English better. However, this often disturbs other guests and the staff.

3. The French center their lives around food and drink. These meals are meant to be slow and relaxed. The average meal lasts hours. Here are a few tips for eating out.

Menus in nontouristy restaurants will not arrive immediately. It is considered rude. You are given the time to settle, relax, and get acquainted. You may be offered an aperitif first. When the menu comes up, you may find you are waiting for the server to take your order. They don’t want you to feel rushed. Also, as long as the menu is open, they will not come, as it signals that you are still undecided. Again, keep in mind that the atmosphere is to be slow. If you are in a hurry for any reason, like to catch a train, explain that to the server. Their first instinct is to give you space.

Once ordered, meals come with long breaks between courses. Most French cuisine is made fresh and served hot, and it is rarely rushed.

If you wait for the check to be brought at the end of the meal, you are in for a long wait. It is considering rushing the guest to get it without them asking for it. This is your table usually for as long as you want it. When you are ready, say
“L’ addition S’il Vous Plait” followed by “Merci” once they acknowledge it.

One last thought: Don’t ask for a doggie bag; it is considered disrespectful. The servings are rarely big, and the food is prepared fresh at its peak. The Chef may take personal responsibility, as much effort was made to prepare and present the meal for you.

4. Most French people speak excellent English, except for older populations. It is always respectful to know some essential words and greetings. By making an effort, you will find they are much freer with their English. You are in their home, so knowing the basics will serve you well.

5. If you are lucky enough to be invited to a home in France, you must always come bearing a gift. Please DO NOT make it wine. Your host pairs the wine based on the menu. To suggest you could know better is not well received, even though it was not your intent. Bring flowers, a box of Macaroons, or Chocolate or Champagne.


6. The markets all over France, especially Provence, are some of the world’s best. They are a sight for the eyes. You might be tempted to touch the produce, but DO NOT. That is the vendor’s job. You can leave it up to them or point but don’t touch yourself. This is a good rule for shops as well. Touching merchandise will bring you nasty looks and, at times, being scolded.

7. Most shops and services are not open overnight or on Sundays. Life and work balance is taken seriously. Many shops still close for a long lunch from 12-2:00 pm. In the summer, many restaurants and shops close for weeks for their vacation. Check hours and don’t count on anything being open into the evening, especially in small towns.

8. The French are dog people, and they are everywhere. But so is their doggy do-do, even in the streets of Paris. Though there are attempts to have owners pick up after their dogs, it is not happening as hoped. It doesn’t bother them. Do not make faces or try to advise them to do so, or you will get some very nasty looks. They love their pets, and nobody messes with that. So watch your steps both with your feet and words!

9. Keeping your hands in your lap during a meal is not considered polite. Hands should be visible with both hands on the table.

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When to go to France

Thanks to its five mountain ranges (the Alps, Pyrenees, Massif Central, Jura, and the Vosges) and three oceans (the Atlantic Ocean, North Sea, and the Mediterranean), France is a veritable year-round playground.

The best time to visit France is Spring’s shoulder seasons (April to May) or fall (September to November) when the weather is warm, and the crowds are less crazy. The winter months (December to February) are great for ski holidays and wide-open attractions, while the summer with lovely weather (June to August) is the most crowded and priciest time of year.

The temperatures below are for Paris. The French Alps would have harsher winter temperatures, and the Mediterranean would be warmer overall.

• Summer 56-78 °F (13-26 °C)
• Spring 41-69 °F ( 5-21 °C)
• Fall 42-71°F ( 6-22°C)
• Winter 36-48 °F (2-17 °C)

Our Favorite Resources

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Travel Books/Guides

France is the place Joelle had been to more than any other country in the world. Her parents were born and raised in France, and French was her first language. That said, when all your extended family is in France, all those trips are not about seeing the country but going from one table to another. It wasn’t until she was an adult she saw France beyond that. Using guides for those trips was what started her travel guide collection. Learning what there was to see was not easy, and it emphasized the importance of research early on.

Rick Steves France 2020 (Rick Steves Travel Guide) by Rick Steves

This was the first Rick Steves guidebook Joelle bought, and she has since relied on them for all destinations he offers. Full disclosure: We are huge Rick Steve fans; it will be rare not to recommend one of his excellent guides. We love his travel style and perspective. His off-the-beaten-path approach and his independent travel philosophy match well with how we travel. The guides never disappoint and are a fantastic resource. Find this must-have guide here.

Lonely Planet’s France 2019 (Country Guide) by Lonely Planet

A passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on the highlights France has to offer and what hidden discoveries await you. Grab a café crème at a Parisian sidewalk cafe, take in glacial panoramas above Chamonix, and explore the Champagne-soaked city of Reims. Great photography and lots of details to aid in planning. Discover this travel guide here.

Michelin Green Guide France Travel Guide by Michelin

This is the quintessential guide to France. Michelin is based in France and knows its home base better than anyone. It also uses a rating system that helps pick what is best for your trip. The updated version presents star-rated attractions, accompanied by regional introductions, cultural background, detailed maps, and recommendations for many great hotels and restaurants. Looking for medieval castles, a guide to visiting Normandy beaches, info on world-renowned wine regions, finding the lavender fields in Provence, or detailed guides to cities? Michelin ensures you see the best of France. Find this guide here.

Our favorite websites

1. France tourism site

2. U.S. Department of State Bureau of Consular Affairs France Country Info

We cannot encourage you enough to visit this website as you plan and prepare for your trip. This is the U.S. Federal Government addressing the safety, security, travel risk, entry, exit, visa documents mandates, emergency U.S. and Embassy contacts, health, local laws, exceptional circumstances, threats, traveler vulnerabilities, government warnings, and transportation in France. This is your best and most reliable resource for all this critical info. Check back often before you go, as things can change quickly. Being prepared is essential in all travel, but especially internationally.

France International Travel Information (state.gov)

3. The Center for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) Travelers Health Resource

This CDC travel resource provides essential health info for your specific destination. Using their tool, you can determine which vaccines, medications, and health advice recommendations are needed for France.

CDC’s Travelers Health Page for France

Our favorite maps

Michelin France Map 721

Renowned for over 100 years for its clear, accurate, and easy-to-read mapping, Michelin gives travelers an overall picture of their route with practical road and travel information. It also offers city maps containing extensive street indexes. Major sites and landmarks are well-marked. Though we default to Google Maps, this came in handy when service was poor or during construction detours. Find this essential map here.

Our favorite apps

Google Maps: Trip and Holiday Organizer. The app instantly displays all your travel options, restaurants, activities, and accommodations when you enter any address, landmark, or city. We have come to rely on it when using public transportation; it has been flawless in getting us on the right bus or metro. Find it on your App Store.

Duolingo-Language Lesson Audio lessons that help improve your listening and speaking skills. Find it on your local App Store.

Rick Steves Audio Europe This app includes Rick Steve’s audio content library and provides cultural and travel information, including self-guided tours of top attractions and historic walks. It is a must-have. Find it on your local App Store.

Google Translate: We use this often to practice proper pronunciations of any language we encounter while traveling. As we always encourage, it is essential to learn the basics of greeting and thanking people in the local language. Google Translate was an easy app to use. If needed, you can enter text in English, and it will speak back in the language you need to aid in communicating with locals.

Do you have a favorite French travel resource? Share your favorites in the comments section at the bottom of this page or

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Flights, Accommodations, and Everything You Need to Book in One Place

Are you planning a vacation this year? Start your research early to explore your options and find what fits your budget. By booking your own travel, you’ll uncover great deals and have complete control over your itinerary. The links below can be used for all elements of your trip, not just accommodations.

It is essential to price out accommodations on various sites. Expedia is a US-based company, whereas Booking.com is Europe-based. Not all properties appear on both, so it is ideal to check both out. Our personal first choice is Booking.com. If the establishment has a website, check the price there as well. Click the link below to check out hotels and vacation homes in the area. It may be just the motivation you need to start planning that next grand adventure.

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France Photo Gallery

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Shopping

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An excellent source for all travel essentials and guides that we have vetted ourselves

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Check out our article Exploring My French Heritage: A Wine Lover’s Journey Through Mas Olivier Winery and the Languedoc-Roussillon Region